You can tell summer has kicked into full gear when the loafers start to lose their linings, and judging by this roundup we’re definitely there. But in addition to six new loafers, we’ve got the latest collaboration from Engineered Garments and Alden, Parkhurst’s new Stitchdown Allen boot, and more, in the latest Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week.
We’ve collected all of our previous roundups here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Parkhurst Allen Stitchdown in Cognac Veg Tan: $428
Since the beginning, Parkhurst’s Andrew Svisco has been pushing the boundaries of their lineup by experimenting with an evolving variety of patterns, leathers, constructions, and price points to get good boots on people’s feet. (No, really.) The next frontier of that exploration was broached by two new Allen plain-toe models built with double row stitchdown construction, which also feature the boutique brand’s new 618 last—compared to the 603 it has a more sculpted toe with less top to bottom forefoot volume and a snugged up heel. They’re available in a cognac veg tan from Italian tannery Tempesti…
Parkhurst Allen Stitchdown in Brown Waxed Flesh: $438
…or in brown Waxed flesh from Horween, with five eyelets, three speedhooks, and a commando outsole.
Division Road x Viberg Rockland Blucher 2030 in Maryam Black Patent Horsebutt: $845
Viberg and Division road have teamed up for a blacked-out, patent leather take on the Rockland Blucher 2030, and if you’re inclined to dismiss these on that basis, hear me out. Most modern patent leather is terrible—impressively terrible—because the shine is achieved via a plastic coating that cracks, peels, and worse. The Maryam tannage in play here uses a natural linseed lacquer that, along with the horsebutt, will fade and patina over time. It’s super cool to see this technique resurrected, and the effect looks damn good on a Ridgeway sole and 360˚ scalloped welt.
Viberg 145 Oxford in Oak Chromepak: $790
We, um, may have mentioned once or twice that we have something resembling a deep and enduring love for Viberg’s 145 Oxford and this week we got something especially good. 145 Oxford pattern: check. Chunky Vibram wedge: check. Chromepak from Horween: check. (Thunderdome??) But we’ve also got the round, chunky 110 last, a throwback to 145s made for the Japanese market in the 2000s. That’s about as a much as a shoe-boot lover can ask for.
Viberg Service Boot 2030 in Natural Chromexcel: $860
Viberg’s 2030 Service Boot in Chromexcel is, to understate things, a classic: it was the (Canadian) herald of a huge surge in American interest in high quality boots, particularly among people who didn’t strictly need them for work. They’ve evolved over the years, with changes to the last (a slightly softer almond toe) shank (bamboo instead of steel), and stitchdown construction (higher SPI). But they’re still a staple, and the patina-hungry staple Natural Chromexcel versions just restocked.
Engineered Garments x Alden Slip-on Chukka Boot in Tan Suede: $685
Japan-based Engineered Garments has taken their over-the-top, milsurp-and-workwear-inspired design language to America’s Last Great Dress Shoe Maker Alden a bunch over the years. And now they’re doing work with a slept-on Alden pattern. Most Alden makeups are practical, few can be called utilitarian—although this slip-on chukka is as close as it gets, with an unobtrusive, elasticated closure and a cushy cavity wedge sole. Equipped with a 360˚ split reverse welt and built on the Barrie last, they’re available in Tan Suede…
Engineered Garments x Alden Slip-on Chukka Boot in Black Calfskin: $685
…black calfskin…
Engineered Garments x Alden Slip-on Chukka Boot in Brown Calfskin: $685
…and brown calfskin. You’ll find them in stock at Nepenthes. If you’re thinking “man, where did the eyelets on my chukkas go”, you just so happen to be in luck—you can read all about the recent, very fun influx of 750 Chukka makeups right here.
Franklin and Poe x Wesco Jobmaster in Burgundy Domane: $685
The finest bootmaker in Scappoose, Oregon is back at Franklin and Poe. Wesco’s Jobmaster can be built out in a near infinite number of combinations, but F&P have gone with a very sensible 8″ lace-to-toe in Seidel’s burgundy Domane, a heavy and durable leather with a steady history of use in the Pacific Northwest. Beneath the double row stitchdown, there’s a subtle logger heel and a Super Grip BK sole. Wesco wait times are…not short these days, so getting the chance at a nicely priced ready to wear model is quite the appealing situation.
Nicks Makers Series JL64 in Roughout British Tan Chromexcel: $569 (Made to Order)
For their 60th anniversary, Nicks launched a new collection of boots designed by its employees and bootmakers. Halfway through the year, it’s grown from one makeup to six, including bootmaker Jamin Lau’s Jl64, which features 430 Vibram mini-lug outsoles, a logger heel, natural beeswax edge finishing, and chromexcel uppers in roughout British Tan. You don’t often see British Tan reversed, but the muted, desaturated brown that results works really well with the natural edge finishing, especially as it will scuff and darken over time.
Nicks Makers Series TD64 in Buck Brown Wickett & Craig Double Stuffed: $739 (Made to Order)
We’re also fans of Tate Doolitle’s TD64, a seven inch plain toe boot on the 55 last in veg-tanned and hot stuffed harness, with a Vibram V-bar outsole and dogger heel. They’re not overstated, except insofar as wearing boots this substantial is inevitably a bit of a statement (a good one!), but they’re a measured makeup executed extremely well. You can check out the whole collection here.
Brogue x Alden “Marcello” Tassel Loafer in Snuff Suede: $639
Alden is an old company with its own way of doing things—there continue to be a lot of good Alden makeups, but it’s a difficult place to turn new stones. Still, Brogue has managed it; the Marcello is the first unlined tassel loafer to use the Aberdeen last (at least as far as we’re aware). The uppers are snuff suede, with a 270˚ flat welt and a single flex leather sole.
Dashing Chicago x Alden Montrose in Dark Cognac Alpine Grain and Color 8: $670
Not to be outdone, Dashing Chicago has deftly made two often risky moves: a two-tone setup PLUS a shell cordovan accent. Who are we kidding though, they know what they’re doing and both choices pay off. The Montrose has a single leather sole with a 270˚ flat welt, and an Alpine Grain upper contrasted against a dark, Color 8 shell tassel. Hard to describe quite why this works so well but we suspect you’ll be inclined to agree that it does.
Leffot x Edward Green Harrow in Brown London Grain: $1770
If Aldens are just too American, an unlined makeup of Edward Green’s Harrow penny loafer in brown London grain calf just dropped at Leffot. They’re built with finely executed 270˚ flat welts, hidden by a closed channel stitch where they would otherwise be visible at the bottom of the single leather sole. You’ll find handwork practically everywhere on these loafers, including on the skin stitched split toe, a technique where two panels are placed side by side and stitched entirely from the flesh side, without penetrating all the way through the leather.
Oak Street Bootmakers Field Officer Boot in Volpi Toiano: $562
The Field Officer Boot is a new limited release model based on the Lakeshore Jump Boot (spoiler alert, that boot is also back, below). The concept is inspired by old commissioned-to-spec officer boots and intended to be both durable and presentable. That means a deadstock Cat’s Paw heel, a Dr. Sole half sole, a 360˚ split welt, and a cap toe with freehand brogueing. The leather of choice here is an uncommon but perfect for the application: Volpi Concerie’s Toiano is a heavyweight vachetta tanned from steer shoulder in a combination of traditional pits and modern drums, with the aim of producing a tannage with the heft and durability of a tooling leather with the dense, consistent finish more common on lighter tannages intended for small leather goods.
Oak Street Bootmakers Lakeshore Jump Boot in Volpi Toiano: $562
The Lakeshore Jump Boot share the specifications of its beefier younger sibling, but on the sleeker Lakeshore last they take on a lighter, less aggressive form inspired by the jump boots worn by officers who—as Oak Street mentions—were doing a lot more jumping out of Jeeps than airplanes, and had some flexibility in how they had their boots made up.
Todd Snyder x Alden Indy in Milkshake Suede: $700
How’s not one, but two new Indy makeups from Todd Snyder, starting with this one in Milkshake suede with contrasting black hardware. They’re equipped with a 270˚ storm welt, neocork outsole, and foot balance heel, all on the Trubalance last, with a pull tab for good measure.
Todd Snyder x Alden Indy in Tobacco Reverse Chamois: $716
Perhaps controversially (maybe not?), I’d place Reverse Chamois in the very top echelon of Indy upper leathers. Here its supporting cast include a 360˚ split reverse welt, a crepe outsole with a leather tip, brass hardware, Trubalance last, and our old friend the pull tab.
Yuketen Bit Loafer with Camp Sole in black Chromexcel Leather: $647 (Made to Order)
Yuketen’s made to order collection just recently gained its second new model in as many weeks, this time a bit loafer on a camp sole with hand-sewn, moccasin construction. Among the ten leather options available, we particularly like the black Chromexcel…
Yuketen Bit Loafer with Camp Sole in Brown Flesh Out: $625 (Made to Order)
…Brown fleshout…
Yuketen Bit Loafer with Camp Sole in Whisky Cavalier: $647
…and Horween Whisky Cavalier (shown here). Lest you worry Yuketen has calmed down too much, there’s still a floral embossed latigo model if that’s more your speed.
Studio Nicholson x Paraboot Malibu Shoe in White Calf: $287
This is intriguing: Paraboot’s latest collab is with British designer Studio Nicholson, on a not-quite-sneaker pair of camp mocs. While we can’t help pointing out that contra the Nicholson blog these aren’t Norwegian welted, they’re Blake stitched (see Lars and Carmina for the difference). Nevertheless they’re a solid makeup from a storied French brand, and available in white calf…
Studio Nicholson x Paraboot Malibu in Tan Nubuck: $287
…and tan nubuck on a camp sole with tonal leather laces.