This week we’ve got Viberg’s second AW24 drop and a special collab, new leathers at Grant Stone, a fresh version of an old favorite from Unmarked, and more in the latest: Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week!
Oh yeah, and the 2024 Stitchdown Boot Camp lineup is officially live (oh wait what’s this… a link to it?)
All of our previous roundups can be found here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Viberg Regent Shoe in Mojave Waxy Commander: $810
Attention Please: As part of the second drop of the AW24 collection, Viberg just unveiled a new model, and it’s… a monk strap? Yes. It is a monk strap. They’re available in this surprisingly rugged looking Mojave Waxy Commander version as well as a handful of calfskin variants, all of which use a Ridgeway sole and 360˚ scalloped welt.
Viberg Navvy Boot in Cognac French Calf: $960
Another notable from drop two is the Navvy Boot, shown here in Cigar French Calf from Annonay. Underfoot is the same 360˚ scalloped welt and Ridgeway combo. Viberg’s stitchdown products win a lot of loyalty (and with good reason), but between the speed hooks, the lack of an external counter cover, and the firmly military-derived 1940 last, it’s been very interesting to watch Viberg develop another take on a service-type boot.
There’s a whole lot more to this release, including a brand new last (the 1905), and a quartet of stitchdown service boots—check out our in depth coverage here for more.
David Coggins x Viberg Outsider II in Tobacco Calf Roughout: $1,000
That’s not all for Viberg this week. The brand’s second collab with author and doubly-fly-fisherman David Coggins is here and there’s a lot to talk about. First, the last: the Outsider uses the 2040 Chelsea boot, a non-bump-toe version of the regular 2040, and we’re dying to know what this profile would look like on a model with laces (though the modifications to the instep might hamper that vision).
Next is the welt, a the 360˚ split situation. Viberg has been leaning hard into the whole “scalloped welt” thing, and while the current collection includes one boot with a storm welt so far, this is the first split welt we’ve seen in a while. Of course, it makes sense to see that deviation appear on a collab boot. The Lactae Hevea “Boss” unit lug sole lives up to its name. Combined with the undyed midsole and welt, the tobacco calfskin roughout upper from Conceria Opera (they’ll be at Boot Camp!), and the tan goring, these are both cool and quite different from the rest of what Viberg is doing right now.
Grant Stone Brass Boot in Cognac Ecbatana: $395
Grant Stone just released a whole bunch of limited release models in three new leathers. Cognac Ecbatana is tanned by Badalassi and based on their Minerva veg-tannage. During the finishing process, Exbatana is hand tooled with long, thin marks that (to us) resemble the scarring you tend to find on kudu. After dying, these marks appear as dark lines lines, making for an extra textured leather that will patina and age just like Badalassi’s regular veg-tans. It’s being offered on a Brass boot with a 360˚ storm welt and commando sole…
Grant Stone Edward Boot in Cognac Ecbatana: $395
…and an Edward Boot with a 360˚ split welt and leather sole.
Grant Stone Edward Boot in Red Waxed Deer: $395
The showstopper of this release is another Edward boot, this one in Gallun’s Red Waxed Deer. Based on the Denali Stag tannage, Waxed Deer is given a heavy coat of oils and then plated, producing a leather with an enormous amount of shine and pull up in addition to the natural figuring of the hide. The uppers sit atop a 360˚ split welt and commando outsoles….
Grant Stone Garrison Boot in Red Waxed Deer: $395
…but you’ll also find the same leather on the brogued cap toe Garrison boot, which has an external counter cover and all eyelet hardware setup, as well as a 270˚ flat welt and the same commando outsole.
Unmarked DB Hunter in Waxy Commander: $490 (Made to Order)
Over the last decade or so Unmarked has gone from producing a funky but cool lineup of made to order sneakers and boots to fielding a truly impressive array of shoes and boots on a variety of different constructions (check out their cowboy boots!). Their DB Hunter model is now available in C.F. Stead’s Waxy Commander. The model has a chunky 360˚ storm welt/leather midsole/rubber outsole combo, with the latter offered in your choice of Itshide or Dainite. That stack, combined with the winged backstay design, embroidered pull loop, and chunky hardware all add up to a very recognizable but thoughtfully designed boot.
Signet x Alden Desert Rat II in Snuff Suede: $785
Signet just brought back their “Desert Rat” makeup, a pull tab-equipped moc-toe boot in snuff suede. Inspired by the British 7th Armored Brigade (and the very cute rodents behind the nickname) the boots are rugged but light, featuring commando half soles, and 360˚ split reverse welts.
Signet x Alden Gray Man in Clay Nubuck: $785
The forebodingly named “Gray Man”, is an moc-toe derby that definitely belongs to the same cinematic universe as the Desert Rat II. The clay nubuck brings a cool, weathered look to the 270˚ storm welt and leather sole. Technically these released a while back, but they were worth including anyways!
Alden Madison Penny Loafer in Brown Regina Grain: $702
Alden Madison is also getting in on the grain-leather Alden release train, albeit from a very different point of view. These Regina Grain penny loafers retain the evenness and gloss that make dressy leathers so satisfying while effortlessly riding the casual side of that line. Really nice soft stuff too. Built on Alden’s Van last, they have a 370˚ flat welt and a single flex leather sole.
Joseph Cheaney Brixton M in Licorice Grain Suede: $595
It could be the U.K. weather, but Joseph Cheaney’s recent releases seem to be leaning harder into the wet and muddy side of fall—most recently, with a duo of apron toed derby boots in grain suede. Between the matte texture of the leather, the Vibram Mirto unit lug soles, and the hiking-style speed-hooks, these take the relatively sleek almond toe of the 125 last and build it out into what looks like a quite capable boot with some serious hardware. You can get these in black (“licorice”)…
Joseph Cheaney Brixton M in Coffee Brown Grain Suede: $595
…and brown (“coffee”).