Here at the Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week, we try to keep you on your toes, not just looking at them. This week it’s two birds with one stone, in roundup that’s got Tabis, a January fall sale, sleek slip-ons and a brand new tannage from Horween. Read on for more!
Previous roundups are collected here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Lost & Found x Viberg 2030 Service Boot BCT in Burgundy Lucida Horsebutt: $942
Viberg half-sole makeups aren’t something you see every so, but it’s always a pleasant surprise when they pop up, usually on a limited release or collab boot like this one from Toronto good-stuff haven Lost & Found. The uppers are in a rich burgundy of veg-tanned and hot stuffed Lucida horsebutt from Italy’s Conceria Maryam, complete with eight matching eyelets and a brogued cap toe. Half soles are from Dr. Sole.
Lost & Found x Viberg 145 Oxford in Toscanello Lucida Horsebutt: $850
Lest anyone feared the introduction of the 1905 last was the end of chunky work “oxfords” at Viberg, we can now say we’re safely in the clear. Chunky Vibram wedge, check. Double row 360˚! stitchdown, check. All that on the 110 last with an upper in a lighter patina-happy Toscanello shade of Maryam’s Lucida horsebutt.
Nicks Boots Overlander in Spokane Leathers: $609 (Made to Order)
Nicks isn’t new to working with tanneries to cook up new leathers for their lineup, but the Spokane tannage they just announced—produced in collaboration with Horween—is a pretty big deal. It’s based on H0rween’s absolutely indestructible Chromepak tannage, a utilitarian leather used for (among other things) gaskets and seals in machinery.
Spokane takes the Chromepak base and then gives it a vegetable retannage and a thorough hot stuffing to eliminate what some consider to be Chromepak’s main drawback: it dosen’t burnish and patina like a veg-tan or combination tanned leather usually would. For now, the leather is available in brown, black, or honey (seen above)—all with waxed flesh variants—on Nicks Overlander model. Customizations are limited (for Nicks) but you can still choose from 8″ and 10″ shaft heights, the HNW and ThurmanNW lasts, celastic or unstructured toe option, and the Vibram lug sole variants.
Yuketen Loafer in Brown Chromexcel: $702 (Made to Order)
Yuketen’s new penny loafer lacks the maximalism of some of their more assertive models, but the very fact that just about any brand might put out a brown Chromexcel penny loafer means Yuketen’s other design sensibilities must be on full display. Case in point: the bat-wing pattern of the strap cutouts and pinking on the backstay, the generously deep collar, the extensive contrast stitching on the strap. There’s no getting around the fact that you don’t see many camp soles at this price point, but between the true moccasin construction and with Yuketen’s standard interior components (veg-tan insole, midsole, and arch support tuck, plus a steel shank) the build is pretty serious.
Briselblack “The Seventh” Chelsea Boots in Black Teacore Horsehide: $650
The artist formerly known as Benzein is back with an in stock, half-sole-equipped Chelsea boot. Wholecut uppers are clicked from teacore horsehide tanned by Shinki, and joined to Dr. Sole outsoles by a 270˚ flat welt. The Kujang last has a pointed toe that ramps up to a wider (but still shallow) forefoot just behind the ball of the foot, and then narrows again in the waist and heel. As always Briselblack demonstrates the top quality work that continues to come out of Bandung.
Tokyo Sandal Tabi Babouche in Black Cowhide: $310
Yup, it’s a stitchdown tabi—an innovation that comes courtesy of Tokyo Sandal, the light footwear wing of the Boots Factory (a.k.a. Rolling Dub Trio—check out our SOLE SEARCHING YouTube series for our visit to Tokyo and RDT). These things are fully resolable, and come with a molded footbed for arch support, which sits atop a proprietary Boots Factory wedge. Veg-tan uppers are designed so that the heels can safely be crushed if you want to wear these as mules, and then returned to the upright position at will. They’re currently in stock at Standard & Strange…
Tokyo Sandal Engineer Slip-On in Black Cowhide: $290
…who are also stocking a mess of other sleek Boots Factory models, like these stitchdown “Engineer” slip-ons with the same veg-tan uppers and some pretty serious roller buckles…
Rolling Dub Trio Spider Slip-On in Black Guidi Calf: $550
…and the Spider, a svelte slip on made with Blake Rapid construction and a nitrile cork sole. The calf uppers are tanned by Guidi, an Italian tannery famous for its own remarkable boots.
Grant Stone Plain Toe Blucher in Black Chromexcel: $412
I’ll plant my flag (and I’m ready to defend it) on the hill that a solid black boot or blucher—no novelty, nothing complicated—is the only-one-pair-allowed, last-shoe standing footwear of choice, full stop. But you don’t have to agree to appreciate that Grant Stone just released an extremely solid, blacked out (save for the poppin’ brass eyelets, a great touch) plain toe blucher with a 260˚ split-reverse welt and a single leather sole. The round/almond shape of the Leo last pulls a lot of weight here. Available in D, E, and EEE widths.
Grant Stone Garrison Boot in Dune Chromexcel: $395
The Garrison is still one of Grant Stone’s newer models, but it’s become enough of a fixture to be made in all the “standard” leathers. Still, natural Chromexcel is hard to beat, at it looks right at home with the finer eyelets and brogued cap toe of the Garrison. This makeup features a commando sole and a 270˚ flat welt.
White’s Perry 132 in Distress Roughout: $390 (Made to Order)
At this point it’s been almost two years since White’s released the more premium “select” version of their Perry Moc Toe, but they’re far from done testing the boundaries of the platform. The new 132 takes the standard Perry off its wedge sole and places it instead on a Vibram unit lug. A 360˚ flat welt and oil-tanned roughout on the uppers round out the general no-nonsense, ready-for-abuse specs.
JK Boots Shot in Mocha Oil Tan: $594 (Preorder)
JK Boot’s “custom specials” are the brand’s way of offering options outside the standard lineup more efficiently (and cheaply) than through typical one-off custom orders. The changes can be simple—the Mocha Shot is a short O.T. boot in a new colorway—but nevertheless they expand your options and JK sometimes has ready-to-ship pairs available. As for the specs, you’ll find a unit lug sole in Vibram’s softer “honey” compound, secured by double row stitchdown construction.
Ealdwine x Alden “EF-2” in Smooth Tobacco Chamois: $698
Ealdwine isn’t afraid to mix things up a little—think green Indys—but this week it’s classic Alden, with a Barrie-lasted cap-toe boot in Horween Tobacco Chamois, with a 270˚ storm welt and a nitrile cork sole.
Carmina 731 Wingtip Oxford in Karagrain Chesnut: $550
Carmina’s new 731 model is no stranger to texture, from the warm brown “Karagrain” upper leather to the brogueing and the fudged 360˚ split welt. They’re given something of an imposing presence by the high walls and well defined lines of the EE-width Forest last, and some heft by the shelf of the welt and the fairly thick micro lug soles. Just a fantastic classic brogue right here, and the price is exceptional.
Oak Street Bootmakers Field Boot in Teacore Brown Cypress: $524
Oak Street’s limited-run boots provide an avenue for steady experimentation. That typically looks like trying out new upper leathers or treatments, but this week, it comes in the form of a new double leather sole, finished with a semi-transparent stain on the edges and underfoot. The uppers are Horween’s wax-rich Cypress combination tannage, finished with brass eyelets and contrast stitching. This configuration is available on a Field Boot…
Oak Street Bootmakers Trench Oxford in Teacore Brown Cypress: $518
…and a Trench Oxford, both with 270˚ flat welts.
20-40% Off at Unmarked Through this Weekend
Rounding out our second January roundup, we’ve got a “Fall Favorites” sale at Unmarked, with 20% off all ready-to-ship boots and 40% off last-of-their-kind pairs. You’ll find the sale codes in a banner at the top of their website. Among other things, there’s a relatively unexplored boot-shoe in the form of the Masa Derby awaiting someone with small feet.