People make shoes and boots; we tell you about them. Josh is on vacation this week (don’t worry he’s spending most of his time in shoe stores), so I’m joyfully back at the roundup. Missed you all.
This week, we’ve got a beautiful range of brand-new stuff, from very meaningful rugged new Nicks, to some beautiful semi-chonk derbies from Wheelrobe, to one the most significant collaborations in years, which has brought Indonesian firestarter brand Sagara onto shelves in the US for the first time.
Get on in there! And check out our past roundups right here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Nicks Howard Boot in Seidel Tan Roughout: $549
Yes, these boots are very good, thanks to Seidel’s bulletproof roughout, a padded collar, and a perfectly matched Vibram honey lug sole (and the ability to get them on Nicks’ 55 or HNW last). But there’s so much more there—they were designed to honor Nicks’ Handmade Boots CEO Shuyler Mowe’s grandfather Howard “Bud” Baker, a WWII dive bomber pilot who later ran a lumber mill in Portland, OR—and wore very similar boots every day. Absolutely beautiful stuff.
Chatting with Seidel, the Quiet US Leathermaking Powerhouse
Nicks Howard Boot in British Tan CXL: $549
These rock the same pattern as the roughout model, but get after it with a brown Vibram 100 sole and Horween British tan CXL leather. Totally different look and feel, same performance—and importance.
Sagara x Standard & Strange Cordmaster in Maryam Black Overdye Horsebutt: $600
Seminal Indonesian brand Sagara offering a ready-to-wear line at one of the most important boot retailers in America is a huge, huge moment. And you can read a ton more about it here. Once you’re done with that, just admire the hell out of these Cordmasters—a trademark Sagara style I personally own and love and have long considered to be one of the most perfect monkey boots ever created—in Maryam black overdye horsebutt.
Sagara x Standard & Strange Valiant in Conceria Cloe Crust Horsebutt: $600
Number two from the initial Sagara x S&S release is a patina monster just waiting to happen: Conceria Cloe crust horsebutt on their Valiant pattern, with Dr. Sole outsoles. These things are GOING places. Man I’m so excited this whole Sagara thing is happening.
More on the Sagara x S&S collaboration and what it represents for the Indonesian boot world
Unmarked DB Hunter Plain Toe in Oiled Veg Tan: $400
MO’ TINA!!! Our favorite Leon, Mexico brand Unmarked has taken their slightly tall plain-toe DB Hunter pattern and outfitted it with a natural veg tan upper leather that just begs you to get loose and see where they go. Vibram Christy sole + Unmarked’s fun little trademark pull-tab. Stashing these for the upcoming Patina Thunderdome II is not a bad idea…
Unmarked DBS Derby Shoe in Oiled Veg Tan: $310
Same leather/sole on these cleeeeean derbies. Unmarked is always a tremendous value, but at $310 these are kinda bonkers for the quality you get.
Viberg Country Boot in Olive Chromepak: $810
I’m gonna come clean: I never really personally connected with some of Viberg’s past country boot makeups, but the level of fit and finish the Canadian brand has been relentlessly moving toward seems to gel just perfectly with the pattern. So I take it all back! These look good thanks to a little refined/rugged mashup courtesy of Horween’s legendarily oily Chromepak leather.
Viberg Country Boot in Oak Chromepak: $810
Same here!
Parkhurst Richmond in Dark Burgundy Double Shot: $352
The latest from Parkhurst sees Seidel’s 6oz Double Shot—which ages quite interestingly—paired up with a Dainite sole, Parkhurst’s 602 last, and the brand’s new, beefed up construction.
Alden Madison Smooth Tobacco Chamois Indy Boot (Pre-Order): $640
Reverse chamois is one of my personal favorite leathers—similar to Chomepak, it’s just incredibly durable and packed with oil and almost feels wet to the touch. Very cool stuff. The smooth side of the leather is every bit as rewarding, and looks just splendid on these Indys from Alden Madison. Black neocork sole on these fellas.
Alden Madison Catskills Chukka Boot in Reverse Tobacco Chamois: $625
Here’s the reverse! Can’t miss. Commando sole on these guys, an excellent rugged casual chukka.
Ealdwine Apex Boot in Horween Arabica Lux: $625
The Horween Arabica Lux train will simply not stop chugging, and these beauty 379x-last PCT jumpers from Raleigh’s Ealdwine wear it very well. They get Alden’s double waterlock leather outsole (my personal favorite leather sole…so comfy), and the famed (thanks to our boy Indy referenced above) Thomas heel.
Kreosote Parlor Skar Spray Gun (Fully Custom): $1950
The man they call JD Gabbard is Kreosote. The one-man bootmaker operating out of an Airstream trailer in the woods outside St. Louis crafts some of the most distinctive, just different boots you’ll ever find—and right now he’s allowing customers to reserve order slots for the latest version of his Parlor Skar engineer (my personal favorite of his work), for which Gabbard employs a historically informed “spray gun” custom overdye process.
Gabbard makes every pair personally, one at a time, so you should expect a bit of a wait (about 30 months). And don’t worry if the site says the boots are “out of stock”—as of publishing he’s still accepting orders so feel very free to reach out.
To get a taste of Gabbard the man and learn more about Kreosote, the Shoecast episode below is very worth a listen:
Wheelrobe Straight Tip Blucher in Black Weinhiemer Calf: ~$500
Have you heard about DressChonk? It’s real—and the subtle version of it looks absolutely fantastic on these from Japanese maker Wheelrobe.