To close out September we’ve got a far-reaching roundup, complete with a new Horween waxed flesh colorway at Nicks, photosensitive persimmon dye from Y’2 Leather at Standard & Strange, endless new Grant Stone models, and more, in the latest: Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week.
Shoes ‘n’ boots from previous weeks are all here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Nicks Boots Custom Configuration in Pacific Waxed Flesh: $609 (Made to Order)
Nicks just unveiled their second new Horween waxed flesh shade in the last few weeks: a deep blue-green they call “Pacific”. The cool thing here is the color of the pull up, a pale blue that leans into the oceanic theme—you can start to see it where the heel and toe have been stretched in the lasting process, but we’d be really interested to see how these look with some wear on them. Plus, you can get them in any combo of last, height, outsole, and heel that suits your fancy.
Y’2 Leather Work Boot in Kakishibu Horse: $900
Y’2 leather—founded in Osaka, Japan in the late 90s—is probably best known for making some extremely cool leather jackets. But they’re basically an R&D lab for everything leather, from boots to down vests, an expertise that lets them pull of some pretty difficult techniques. Case in point: the Kakishibu Horse on these boots is dyed with photosensitive persimmon tannins. When new, they’re just a little bit warmer and yellower than your average natural veg tan. But as they’re exposed to sunlight, they’ll continue to darken to a warm persimmon. The boots themselves are 6″ derby pattern with a 270˚ storm welt in addition to V-Bar half soles and heels. The last is pleasantly rounded, with a slightly sprung toe that’s also unstructured. If we were putting together a roundup of last-minute Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome recommendations, these would definitely be in it.
Rolling Dub Trio Jodhpur Boots in Black Horsebutt: $1,100
Standard & Strange just restocked four models from Tokyo’s Rolling Dub Trio. RDT has one of the tougher Jodhpur patterns out there, with a substantial woodsman heel and a heavyweight teacore horsebutt upper. There’s a rubber outsole, nailed at the waist and attached to a 270˚ flat welt.
Rolling Dub Trio Coupen 7 in Black Dressner: $650
The low Coupen usually steals the limelight from its seven eyelet (not 7 inch) sibling, and we do love a good boot shoe. Still, it’s not often you see Horween’s Dressner leather used to its full potential. Underfoot we’ve got Rolling Dub Trio’s standard combo—a nitrile cork sole with a leather toe insert and toe taps. Otherwise, this is a super straightforward boot right down to the 360˚ flat welt. The only pattern detail that stands out is the binding pinked binding on the shaft, exaggerated to swallow the first eyelet. Everything else is simple but very thoughtful.
Brick + Mortar Seattle x Alden “Yakima” in Tan Chamois: $710
Horween Chamois sits in a very interesting category of its own as far as upper leathers go. As a nubuck it’s technically a corrected grain leather, which normally means not very premium at all! But Horween’s raw materials, tanning process, and their desire to pack the stuff absolutely full of neatsfoot oil means that chamois is just unique and quite wonderful, hardy but classy. These plain toes are built on the Trubalance last—one of our favorite Alden comfort combos—with a commando half sole and heel and 270˚ split-reverse welt.
Grant Stone Diesel Boot in Black Waxed Commander: $360
Grant Stone has been on a tear this week. There’s a new version of their Diesel in Black Waxed commander from C.F. Stead, another boot that feels like it’ll be a very appealing everyday boot for a certain set of people. Except for the silver eyelets, everything from the 360˚ split welt to the commando sole is totally blacked out, which really draws attention to the matte, waxy texture of the uppers.
Grant Stone Traveler Penny in Olive Chromexcel: $380
There’s also a new olive Chromexcel version of the uppers, and these things look really, really good. The fact that they pass for brown if you squint really hard makes you almost forget that we’re talking about green shoes. Somehow they don’t feel intimidating at all. Standard for the Traveler is an oiled leather outsole, a 360˚ flat welt, and the nicely substantial Alexander last.
Grant Stone also has the dark olive CXL available on a Diesel boot, and Edward boot. Great great leather here.
Crockett & Jones Denver in Dark Brown Hatch Grain: $780
Crockett & Jones just put out their collection of autumn/winter makeups for this year, which they’re calling “Scottish Pursuits”—the lineup heavily features both waxed roughout and the hatch grain leather used on this Denver, which they characterize as an “oily pull-up leather”. The combination of a split-toe derby on the almond shaped 378 last with a lugged Vibram unit outsole is a pretty good showcase of what the brand as a whole has been leaning into lately—finding ways to dial up the chonk and aggression without obfuscating their traditional (and very British) sensibilities.
Rancourt & Co Beefroll Penny Loafers in Driftwood: $328
If it’s not clear already, C.F. Stead’s Waxy commander has been absolutely everywhere lately. Rancourt is getting in on the fun with a trio of new loafers in the Driftwood colorway. The Beefroll LH is your classic American penny loafer—270˚ flat welt, leather sole, rounded design, and because this is Rancourt, true moccasin construction.
Rancourt & Co Beefroll Penny Loafers LH in Driftwood: $338
The Beefroll LH takes that template and swaps out the leather sole stack for a unit sole in softer and grippier Lactae Havea crepe…
Rancourt & Co Kiltie Loafer in Driftwood: $328
…while the (appropriately named) Kiltie Loafer adds in lacing around the ankle, a black rubber outsole, and a big ole kiltie. We’re fans of the low vamp on this design.
Truman Service Boot 79 in Color 8 Cypress: $480
Cypress is another one of those Horween leathers that flies under the radar. Like Chromexcel, it’s a hot stuffed combination tannage, though here the final layers of wax are ironed into the leather creating a dense, saturated grain. Phil Kalas of Ashland Leather (who knows a thing or two about Horween’s tannages) calls it “self healing”. The tanning and finishing process for cypress also produces a lighter Color 8 than you’ll find in shell or CXL, closer to red than brown.
JK Western Colt in Indigo/Cognac Smooth Ostrich: $525
The family behind JK Boots is not kidding about their new Western line, manufactured in the bootmaking hub that is Leon, Mexico. These aren’t engineers that lost their buckles, nor are they the curvaceous, high heeled versions that have ascended to high art in the hands of custom makers. We’re talking about square toed work boots with low block heels and rubber soles—the kind of cowboy boot that an actual ranchers might favor. The construction is a channeled insole Goodyear welt rather than the more traditional pegged waist. The new Colt is available in indigo and cognac ostrich…
JK Western Colt in Midnight Smooth Ostrich: $525
…or in blacked out “Midnight” ostrich.