So we’re slightly late here! Apologies! But hey we had to compile a very very good lineup, including a Red Wing oxford making a grand US return, Nicks dropping three new models in Horween’s Shackleton tannage, some excellent upcoming Aldens from Leffot, shell cordovan discounts at Carmina, and plenty more.
We’ve rounded up all our roundups for your convenience here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Nicks Boots Traveler in Horween Brown Shackleton: $569
Nicks has unveiled their first crack at a very appealing new article from Chicago’s famed Horween: Shackleton, a wildly supple combo-tanned leather which offers a serious extra burst of water-resistance, and endless pull-up. The Spokane maker is first deploying said Shackleton in its brown shade on the HNW-lasted Traveler boot with a Vibram 2021 cavity wedge…
Nicks Boots Traveler in Horween Cognac Shackleton: $569
…plus the same setup in the Cognac Shackleton.
Nicks Boots Maxwell in Horween Greener Pastures Shackleton: $569
And then we’ve got the Greener Pastures shade of Shackleton, gracing Nicks new Maxwell silhouette, which features a 7-inch height, toned-down midsole for quick break-in and flexibility, and a padded collar, all on the ThurmanNW last and mated to a Vibram 100 monsterlug.
Carmina Blucher 532 in Horween Cordovan: $825 (MTO)
It’s Cordovan Week at Carmina (new holiday?), and in that spirit they’ve re-opened all previous shell cordovan GMTOs (there are more than 50) for new orders, and have waived the MTO fee through March 12, 2024. Of the batch on offer, a clear personal favorite is the 532 Blucher, a Detroit-lasted longwing available in any shade of Horween shell Carmina has in stock (15!!) on J.R. leather soles secured by a 360˚ closed-channel storm welt and with brass tacks at toe and heel.
Carmina 80708 Full Strap Penny in Horween Cordovan: $825 (MTO)
Another strong contender? The 80708 full strap pennys, an unlined loafer with swooping lines available in (need I say it again) 15 shades of Horween shell cordovan. Like the longwings, they have JR leather sole, this time secured with 360˚ flat welt. It’s worth noting that all of the models mentioned come with shoe trees.
Carmina 80186 Chelsea in Horween Cordovan: $925 (MTO)
For the roll enthused (or the leather-sole averse), the 80186 Chelseas feature a heightened shaft, 360˚ split welt, and a proprietary rubber sole. You can check out the rest of the lineup here.
Red Wing Shop Moc Oxford in Oro Legacy: $290
A wonderful return right here. Red Wing has been releasing new U.S. market models at in increasingly steady pace of late and this one is, to understate things, a hit for us. The thought-dead Moc Oxford (Moxford?) is exactly what it sounds like: take Red Wing’s classic moc platform with a 360˚ flat welt, Traction Tread wedge, and beefy veg-tan insole, chop off the shaft, and you’ve got these. It’s the sort of boot-shoe funkiness we love around here, and in a well tested incarnation you used to have to trawl for on eBay or arrange to have forwarded from Japan. Oro Legacy is probably to go-to leather for most people on this one…
Red Wing Shop Moc Oxford in Black Prarie: $290
…but they’re also available in Black Prairie…
Red Wing Shop Moc Oxford in Hawthorne Abeline: $290
…and Hawthorne Abilene.
3sixteen x Sanders Military Derby in Black Gloss: $420
3sixteen has taken another foray into footwear with a Military Derby manufactured by Sanders & Sanders, a (Sanders-) family-owned British with a 151 year pedigree including manufacturing many original pairs of the service footwear from which this release draws its inspiration. The uppers are clicked from an unnamed glossy black leather, with olive laces and a triple stitched cap toe.
All of the upper stitching is Puritan stitched, a method which uses more durable interlocking loops of thread. We doubt you regularly blow out the upper stitching on your shoes, but it’s in any case an interesting (and period correct) detail that in theory provides additional functionality. The outsoles are Commandos from Itshide (another referential choice), and attached by a 360˚ flat welt. They’re simple, stark, a bit rugged, and readily dressed up.
Viberg Rockland Blucher in Black Hatchgrain Shell Cordovan: $1,480
Black hatch-grain cordovan? Yes please. On the Rockland Blucher it adds texture, alongside the 360˚ scalloped welt, to what’s otherwise a clean and solid pattern on Ridgeway.
Viberg Navvy Boot in Black Hatchgrain Shell Cordovan: $1,740
It’s also being offered up on one of Viberg’s rarer models, the Navvy Boot, a short-shafted version of the cap-toe Halkett boot on the 2030 last with the same sole setup as the above Bluchers.
Leffot x Alden Chukka in Color 8 Shell: $955 (MTO)
Leffot just announced three new Aldens available for preorder: A Color 8 shell cordovan, two-eye chukka with a split reverse welt and a commando half sole…
Leffot x Alden Indy Boot in Snuff Suede: $695 (MTO)
…a snuff suede Indy Boot with a leather sole and a 270˚ storm welt on the Trubalance last…
Leffot x Alden V-Tip Boot in Black Shell: $935 (MTO)
…and murdered out V-Tip on a hunky crepe sole with contrasting brass hardware.