We’ve got a rangy one this week, spanning four continents and featuring almost as many makers as boots. We’ve got Grant Stone’s going Ghost, Tricker’s Trampers at Division Road, Russell’s newest fishing oxford, and more, in the latest: Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week!
Trawl the complete roundup archive here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]
Tricker’s x Division Road Churchill Boot in Horween Natural Dublin: $695
In the world of natural veg-tan uppers there are two buckets: your true naked, undyed, largely untreated leathers (outside bootland these are sometimes called tooling leathers), and then your more intricate hot-stuffed or otherwise treated tannages that happen to be left undyed—your bridles, harnesses, or in this case, natural Dublin—these are taken a step further and given another oil treatment at the Trickers factory. The boots have French binding on the (high) quarters, a plain cap toe, and a 360˚ storm welt, as well as a Goodyear commando sole.
Trickers x Division Road Tramping Boot in Horween Mocha Bisque Dublin: $685
Here’s one for all my bog dwellers. Trickers has a long history of making country shoes, and the Tramping Boot is one product of that lineage (though I prefer my coffee in its more traditional beverage form rather than as a soup). They’re equipped with a Ridgeway outsole and 260˚ stormwelt, with nine eyelet, plain-toe upper in Horween Dublin.
White’s Perry 6″ Select in C.F. Stead Rosewood Kudu: $425
White’s just dropped some ready-to-wear stock of our second favorite Perry in heavily textured Rosewood Kudu from C.F. stead. Since its release the Goodywear welted model has served as a platform for White’s to experiment with a variety of leathers in a format that’s also more accessible than their stitchdown offerings. That said, wedge-soled moc-toes are very much their own thing, and this is a good one, with a 360˚ storm welt, Vibram Christy sole, and the White’s leather shank, all on the 1972 Arch-Ease last.
Grant Stone Garrison Boot in Ghost Burro: $425
Here’s one I’m personally excited for: Conceria Walpier’s Ghost Burro is a veg-tanned leather that’s coated with a heavy layer of white wax, which will wear relatively quickly to reveal the natural veg-tan underneath. Though the soft matte finish of the out-of-the-box boots is interesting, the real magic is that as the harder wax wears off, it leaves a shiny, burnished finish to the leather, something highly uncommon and absolutely delightful.
While you won’t get the level of polish you would on a wallet that’s in contact with the fabric of your pockets all day, for example, the more complex wear patterns of a pair of boots will leave different parts of the upper progressing at different rates, adding an interesting textural element. The specs are standard for the (relatively) new Garrison model, a 270˚ flat welt with a micro stud rubber outsole, perforated cap toe, and all eyelet hardware setup on the Leo last.
Russell Moccasin Finishing Oxford in Imperial Black $535
Goth fly fishermen have historically had quite limited options within the Russell lineup, but this week those options broadened. In all seriousness though, it’s pretty well documented that we’re massive fans of the fishing oxford around here (we ran not one but two for our Russell collab…with more to come soon). Russels Moccasin construction (this time a single vamp) on a soft Vibram Aspen Gumlite outsole is pretty hard to beat on the comfort front. The uppers are Horween Chromexcel, with four black eyelets.
Wootten Gordon Heritage Two Up Boot in Cowhide: $750 (Made to Order)
Wootten, a very exciting growing bootmaker from Australia, recently began accepting orders for the ‘Gordon Two Up’, a higher shafted version of their Gordon service boot, built with a McKay welted construction, where the upper is tucked between the insole and midsole, all three layers are stitched together inside the boot, and then the midsole is stitched to the outsole outside the upper (the same place the welt would usually sit). Each order starts with a consultation with Wooten to talk through sizing and select details like the leather (all Australian-tanned cowhide, but available in a wide range of colors) and options like a cap or plain toe and the toe shape (they currently offer two) among others. They currently stock outsoles from Starr, Itshide, and Dr. Sole, in addition to a leather offering.
Zerrows Engineer Boots in Black Teacore Latigo: $940
If you’re not familiar with them, Japan’s Zerrows is a brand worth checking out, though at present their availability in the west is limited. In addition to their custom offering (which can get out there, to say the least), they offer heritage/amekaji classics like the engineer currently in stock at East West Apparel, which has a flat, almond toed last, a Vibram 269 half sole/Cat’s Paw heel outsole setup, and teacore latigo uppers from Horween, with a 270˚ flat welt.
John Lofgren Wabash Engineer Boots in Dark Brown Shinki Horsebutt: $1,250
A slightly chunkier engineer, Lofgren’s Wabash model has been something of a stalwart, and Standard & Strange just got new stock in a dark brown horsebutt from Shinki, also teacore, with a 270˚ flat welt and Vibram half sole.
Blackstock & Weber Ellis Penny Loafer in Chestnut Suede: $395
Blackstock & Weber’s Ellis, which simultaneously delivers chonk and funk, just became available in two new colorways. The penny loafer has a double leather soul and a 360˚ fudged split welt, now with Chestnut…
Blackstock & Weber Ellis Penny Loafer in Midnight Suede: $395
…or Midnight (black) suede uppers from the French Tanneries Du Puy.