It’s a gold medal roundup this week: new Tricker’s at Division Road, Crown Northampton embracing American sport (why don’t they use an “s” at the end?!?), version four of the nnnnndestructible boot from Rose Anvil and Nicks, MORE NICKS, and of course a whole lot more in the latest Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week!
You’ll find all of our roundups from weeks past here.
[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.
Division Road x Tricker’s Bourton Brogue in Tempesti Cuoio Elbamatt Liscio: $735
Division Roads collabs usually have a pretty strong POV, but the Tricker’s makeups walk a slightly different line. They’re usually models pretty close to the center of the Tricker’s ecosystem, and one’s that fit quietly but strongly into Division Road’s vibe. Today’s Bourton release keeps things Tricker’s enough while also introducing a wonderful caramel-y veg-tan leather from top-flight Italian tannery Tempesti, with a tonal storm welt and Dainite sole, on the somehow elegant and still pretty chunky 4444.
Division Road x Tricker’s Stow Boot in Tempesti Ambra Elbamatt Liscio: $765
The high altitude cousin in a slightly lighter Tempesti shade is an even more aggressive distillation of those Tricker’s ideas, subbing in a leather sole and the 4497 last (basically a boot-optimized 4444), as well as adding a brown canvas pull tab. The higher boot gives even more real estate for brogueing, of which there is no shortage.
Rider for Stitchdown Fritz Chelsea in Horween Dark Brown Waxed Flesh: $550 (Pre-Order)
We’ve fired things back up with shoemaking shadowgod Ron Rider, this time taking our favorite Chelsea boot—Rider’s wonderfully almond-toed Fritz—and equipping it with Horween’s dark brown waxed flesh, the reversed Chromexcel they build up beautifully with a thick, glistening wax coat that will gradually work itself down in high-wear spots to reveal the nappy core underneath. The Vibram Mortara half-soles are low-profile but quite capable in various conditions.
These guys are limited to just 30 pair total!
Viberg Service Boot 2030 BCT in Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan: $1,760 (Pre-Order)
The Viberg preorder open now for a 2030 in smoky Dark Cognac Horween shell, a dressy brogued cap-toe version with very fine blind eyelets and a dainite sole. The construction is, of course, double row stitchdown, available in three widths and sizes six through thirteen.
Rose Anvil x Nicks NDW in Black WeatherSheild and Green Bison: $649
The ND series started with a pretty simple premise (“let’s build the most nd-structible boot we can”), but four iterations deep there’s a little more room for experimentation. Not that these are light—they look to be absolute tanks—but they are designed to be a superheavy riff on a flexible jungle boot. The characteristic green canvas paneling has been replaced with tougher (but still bendy) green Horween bison, and the boots use a Nicks-branded Maxwedge outsole, a composite design with hard rubber lugs under a cavity-wedge shaped layer of foam fill. They clock in at a towering 10 inches, and (except on the cutouts), use WeatherShield leather that’s been permeated with water-repelling resins.
Nicks Limited Run in Mole Waxy Commander: $609
C.F. Stead Waxy Commander has been never really been a sleeper leather, but this year it’s really starting to boil over in a great way. Now, Nicks is doing a limited run in a few different shades, including the very cool “Mole”. In true Nicks fashion these are pretty much yours to configure in terms of the last, outsole, height, and hardware, among many (many) other options.
White’s Lady C350 Cruiser in Natural Chromexcel: $549
White’s just dropped its second new women’s model in three months. The C350 that just hit the website has actually been available in store in Spokane for some time. “Lady” here refers to the W4811 last, a modified version of the men’s Smokejumper last, snugged up at the heel and ball and available in a broader range of small sizes. Uppers in a trio of Chromexcel colors also share DNA with the Smokejumper and Cruiser patterns, with double row machine stitchdown construction and a Vibram mini-lug sole.
Leffot x Edward Green Montpellier in Color 8 Shell Cordovan: $2,250
We’re not certain there’s anywhere Leffot wouldn’t put some color eight shell (not a bad affliction!), but we are pretty sure that no one would question it on a full strap penny loafer from Edward Green. The geometry on these things is sharp, with a beveled waist on the inside of the arch playing into all of the curves and keeping the look quite light. In a fourth-wall-obliterating move, we’re neglecting the usual side-on shot to show that, because the outside edge is kept square, an asymmetric style that was fairly common historically but which is pretty rare today. Unlined uppers are combined with a 270˚ flat welt, which is also a “blind” welt, meaning that instead of being visible on the bottom of the sole, the stitching is concealed.
Parkhurst Allen Stitchdown in Chestnut Veg Tan: $418
If you’re experiencing patina-drought, Parkhurst is putting in the work to sate that for you. Their new three boot collection uses a lightly finished, full veg-tan vachetta from Tempesti. Otherwise, the boots are built with double row Stitchdown on Parkhurst’s E width (but fairly low volume) 602 last, and available in Chestnut…
Parkhurst Allen Stitchdown in Bordeaux Veg Tan: $418
…Bordeaux…
Parkhurst Allen Stitchdown in Black Veg Tan Teacore: $418
…and black.
Crown Northampton ‘Courtside Overstone’ Derby Hi in Horween Basketball: $420
Horween is pretty famous in the footwear world for their shell and for Chromexcel, but outside of boots (imagine such a horror) they’re possibly most famous for tanning all of the leather that’s used on NFL footballs, NBA basketballs, and plenty of MLB baseball gloves. Crown Northampton is building just thirty pairs each of their Overstone sneaker that won’t bounce as well as a basketball. These are fully leather lined with a single piece cup sole that’s attached to the upper with a sidewall stitch (Crown can actually resole these for you) and a leather topped foam insole. Hi…
Crown Northampton ‘Courtside Overstone’ Derby Lo in Horween Basketball: $395
…and Lo options are available for both leathers, and the “Courtside” models have a black Chromexcel backstay…
Crown Northampton ‘Quarterback Overstone’ Derby Lo in Horween (American) Football: $395
…while the “Quarterback” models have a matching backstay.
Sandmann Prisoner in Whisky Waxed Canvas: $362
Rounding us out for the week is this breakout (sorry) new model from Sandman, which uses a heavy Halley Stevenson waxed canvas on the quarter panels, and we have to admit that the stuff has a pretty cool texture to it. Otherwise, these made-in-Spain lace-to-toes sport a 260˚ split welt and cream Vibram Morflex outsoles. We haven’t personally gotten our hands on these yet but Sandmann falls into a broader stream of European bootmakers going hard in this approximate price bracket. And the LTT pattern is pretty darn dialed. Definitely a brand to keep eyes on…