Shoes 'n' Boots of the Week: Viberg's Glistening Wooly CXL, Discounts at Division Road and Rancourt, and more

On this week’s episode we’re going off script to talk about socks and learn about wool…but we didn’t forget about the boots. We’ve got Viberg’s mammoth Wooly Chromexcel release (only five models but I couldn’t help it), discounts at Division Road and Rancourt, and a new model from Bridlen. All that and more on this weeks: Shoes ‘n’ Boots of the Week!

Want to reread every roundup in order? You can find them all here.

[Ed Note: while we never choose anything specifically because of them, some of these recommendations contain affiliate links—the price is the same for you, but Stitchdown gets a small commission if you make a purchase. It’s essential to keeping the site alive, so we really, really appreciate it.]

Viberg Service Boot 310 in Dark Brown Wooly Chromexcel: $860

The “wool” in question here isn’t actually the fuzzy stuff itself, but wool fat (otherwise known as lanolin), a natural grease produced by sheep and collected as a byproduct of wool production. In this Chromexcel variant, Horween produces an oily leather with a slight luster. It’s also heat sensitive at around the boot-on-foot temperature range, which hypothetically means they’ll mold to your foot better. Viberg just dropped five new boots in the leather, including these square-jawed 310s in dark brown with Dainite half soles.

Viberg Service Boot 2040 in Raw Natural Wooly Chromexcel: $860

The 310s above and these 2040 Service Boots are both available in dark brown and natural—although the natural Wooly Chromexcel has a warmer and more orange hue to it than your standard natural CXL. Here Viberg has again used Dainite half soles and heels, this time with nine smaller caramel eyelets and clear edge finishing. Great great Patina Thunderdome (starts Oct 1) boot here…

Viberg Service Boot 1035 in Dark Brown Wooly Chromexcel: $860

The odd one out here (or more accurately the bonus boot) is a 1035 Service Boot in Dark Brown Wooly Chromexcel. There’s no Natural version, and the tonal eyelets and edge finishing are combined with a more agressive commando outsole. All models feature Viberg’s double row stitchdown construction.

Grant Stone Longwing in Loden Suede: $370 (Pre-order)

For their latest preorder, Grant Stone has kitted out a trio of their dressier models in Loden Suede, and they come with a side of linguistics. “Loden” the color comes from “Loden” the rough woolen fabric (that’s where the coat gets its name too), which was greenish brown because that’s color of wool you get from a german mountain sheep (we’re learning a lot about sheep this week). With polished brass eyelets, a 360˚ split welt, and a whole lot of brouguing they make for a cool spin off of the standard gunboat recipe, here on a micro stud sole rather than leather.

Grant Stone Garrison Boot in Loden Suede: $380 (Pre-order)

Boot purists and fall-preppers get a brogued cap toe Garrison boot with a 360˚ flat welt and a commando outsole…

Grant Stone Plain Toe in Loden Suede: $370 (Pre-order)

…but the most formal of the bunch is a plain toe derby with a 360˚ split welt and a butyl dipped single leather outsole. All the pairs use the Leo last.

Bridlen Dimple Derby in Black Annonay Vegano Box Calf: $251 (Made to Order)

Bridlen Shoes just debuted a swooptie-equipped split-toe derby. For the unfamiliar, Bridlen originally launched as an online only, Japan-exclusive line of dress shoes from Affan Leathers, a veteran manufacturer in the Indian state (and leather powerhouse) of Tamil Nadu. Now Bridlen sells and hosts trunk shows around the world. As part of their main line, the new Dimple Derby’s 270˚ flat welt is secured by a holdfast carved into the leather insole rather than canvas gemming, and attached to the leather outsole via a closed channel stitch (though a rubber sole option is also available). The uppers are assembled directly on the lasts, rather than prior to lasting. Other than the decorative shape of the quarters, they’re a straightforward but solid dress derby.

Rancourt Baxter Ranger Moc in Natural Chromexcel: $232 (pre-order)

It’s summer presale season at Rancourt, which means a whole pile of pretty aggressively discounted Maine moccasin madness. Stitchdown favorites? The four eyelet Baxter in natural Chromexcel, in all of its handsewn, Lactae Hevea wedge glory…

Rancourt Harrison Boot Redux in Carolina Brown Chromexcel: $258 (Pre-order)

…the Vibram Christy version of the Harrison, Rancourt’s Maine guide boot take in brown Chromexcel, built on their widest last…

Rancourt Weltline Penny Loafer in Dark Brown Calf: $251 (Pre-order)

…and the Weltline, arguably overshadowed at times by Rancourt’s (very good) Beefroll, but a very solid loafer in its own right. It’s a handsewn penny loafer with a full strap pattern and a leather outsole.

Division Road x Crockett & Jones Grizedale in Bronze Oiled Sides: $545

Division Road is running their end of season sale, which is a chance to grab some of their previous collaboration boots at a few hundred bucks below retail. Right now that’s Crockett & Jones models like this Grizedale, a very elegant boot that also features a waterproof interlining and a gusseted tongue for some serious tromping. They have an all eyelet hardware setup with a 270˚ split welt and a commando sole.